The history of tabi

There are several theories about the origin of tabi, including one that suggests they evolved from footwear called "shitouzu," which is believed to have been introduced to Japan from China around the 5th century. Shitouzu had no crotch and were shaped like modern socks, tying them around the ankle with a string after putting them on. Prior to the Heian period, aristocrats did not wear zori sandals. Instead, they wore "asagutsu," similar to modern slip-ons, or "kanokutsu," boot-like sandals. Therefore, "shitouzu" is thought to be a corruption of "shitagutsu," meaning "under-shoes." Even during the Heian period, brocade was worn for formal wear and white for morning wear, with twill silk, lacing silk, or hemp being used depending on rank. There were also special types of tabi made from leather, primarily worn during kemari and bugaku dance. Also during the Heian period, hunters known as "yamaga" wore footwear made from the fur of monkeys, bears, and deer to protect their feet in the mountains and fields. They also wore "ketabi" socks with crotches at the toes, and it is said that these became the prototype for the tabi socks of later generations.

Unlike the nobles who wore hosiery, samurai primarily wore "tanbi" (single leather). The Heian period "Wamyosho" (Wamyosho) states, "Townspeople make half shoes out of deerskin. They are called tanbi." These were similar to what we now call shoes, made from a single piece of leather, and one theory is that the "tanbi" later evolved into "tabi." The Kamakura period "Uji Shui Monogatari" (Tales of Uji) contains a passage that reads, "Monkey skin tabi socks are worn without socks," indicating that the character "tabi" (single leather) was in use as early as the 11th century. However, the tabi used at this time did not yet have separate toes, and it is said that the modern-day separate shape for the big toe was not adopted until the Muromachi period. Other theories include that the shape of tabi resembles a nose, and that when both feet are together it looks like four noses, hence the name "tabi" (four noses); that when people traveled, they would wrap their feet in bags made of deerskin to protect them from pain, and that the word "tabi" was shortened to "tabi" (traveling shoes), which then became "tabi."

From the Muromachi period onwards, along with the spread of zori sandals, leather tabi socks also became popular among samurai. Around the Bunroku period (1592-1596), it became customary for men to wear white leather tabi socks or small patterned tabi socks dyed with small cherry blossoms or other patterns, while women wore purple-dyed tabi socks. However, the period in which they could be worn was strictly regulated, from September to February of the following year, and permission from the senior councilor or castle lord was required. Furthermore, among the samurai of the time, wearing tabi socks in public was considered rude, and it was considered polite to go barefoot when wearing formal attire or in front of one's lord. However, as the era became increasingly war-torn, leather tabi socks began to be used as part of military uniforms.

Leather tabi remained common even during the Edo period. However, after the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657, common people began purchasing leather haori (jackets) and other items for fire protection, causing leather prices to soar. As a result, inexpensive cotton tabi were used for the socks. These socks gained a reputation for their soft feel and comfort, and quickly became popular. In addition to plain white, various types of tabi appeared, including dyed tabi and ridged tabi (tabi with silk thread embroidery). Colors changed with the times, but white, black, and navy blue became mainstream. Among Edo samurai, the idea of ​​wearing white tabi for formal attire spread, and Edo townspeople began to wear navy blue tabi. While there are still various types of tabi today, including white tabi, colored tabi, and small-patterned tabi, white tabi is considered the standard for formal attire. Also, around the Horeki era (1751), thin summer tabi began to be made and were worn year-round.

During the Genroku period (1688-1704), tabi socks fastened around the ankle with "kohaze" (buckles) were developed, the prototype of modern tabi socks, by adapting the claws found on wallets imported from China. Tabi socks fastened with buttons also began to be made. However, tabi socks tied with strings were still used by ordinary people, especially in rural areas, and it was not until the Meiji period that tabi socks with "kohaze-gake" (buckle-attached) became widely popular. Until the Meiji period, two kohaze (buckles) were the norm, but now there are ones with three to six, although the four-piece type is more commonly used. It is said that the fewer kohaze (buckles) there are, the more comfortable it is to sit in seiza position, and the more there are, the more beautiful your standing posture becomes.

In the Meiji period, they became widely popular among the general public due to their warmth, convenience, and fashion sense. Furthermore, "jikatabi" socks were made for more practical outdoor use. However, after the war, with the shift from traditional Japanese clothing to Western clothing, opportunities to wear tabi on a daily basis decreased, except for certain occupations such as construction workers, and they were only used for traditional Japanese events such as martial arts, flower arranging, and tea ceremony.

In recent years, tabi socks, which have spaces between the toes and make the soles of the feet sensitive, have been rediscovered as a way to reduce foot fatigue and improve health.In addition, with the emergence of tabi socks with casual patterns and designs that can be coordinated with Western clothing, they are beginning to be recognized as a "new fashion" among fashion-conscious young people.